I can't believe that I have managed about 5 years of sewing without attempting a shirt/blouse cuff, well I've mastered it!
My first attempt was whilst making the Colette Aster blouse and I found the instructions a little bit tricky, so I thought that I would share a few tips to make it easier.
Ok, so I have already made the sleeve placket (which was easier than it looked in the instructions, its just a load of folds), these are the steps that I followed to successfully add the cuff
- Cut out 4 cuffs from the fabric (2 for each sleeve) and transfer any pattern markings (the button and button hole).
- Cut out 2 cuffs from heavy weight fusible interfacing and attach to the wrong side of 2 of the fabric cuff pieces.
- Fold the straight edge over on the 2 cuff pieces that are interfaced by 3/8" and press (fold towards the wrong side as shown in the picture.
- Lay an interfaced cuff on top of a non interfaced cuff right side to right side, matching the bottom curved edge and sides (so that you have a bit of the non-interfaced cuff peeping over at the top) and stitch around the edge using a 3/8" seam allowance, but start and stop at the top of the folded line (so the little bit of non interfaced cuff peeping over is not stitched) use the image above to see this better.
Ok, now the next step is a little confusing so read it carefully and study the pictures below to help.
- Lay the cuff on top of the sleeve edge with the right side of the sleeve facing up, and the interfaced side of the cuff facing down on top of it (you can see below that the non interfaced side of the cuff will be facing you)
- Match the edge of the non interfaced cuff to the edge of the sleeve, but start at the stitch line of the cuff, so the seam allowance on the cuff will be hanging over the edge of the sleeve placket, study the pictures above and below carefully to see this in detail
- Pin the edges together and stitch at 1/4", its really important to do 1/4" so that it does not catch the interfaced edge, can can feel the interfaced edge as you sew to be sure.
- Now trim the cuff sleeve allowance as shown
- Turn the cuff right side out, ensuring that the corners are pushed out and press
- Edge stitch around the outside edge of the cuff (but not where the cuff and sleeve attach to one another as you need to finish this on the inside).
- Use a hand sewn whip stitch to close the cuff on the inside, ensuring that the seam allowance is pushed upwards so that it is hidden inside the cuff (you can use a stitch in the ditch method instead here on the machine, but this never works out for me so I prefer to hand sew it closed).
- Add your button/button hole or go for the easy option like me and use a snap fasten, tah dah!! All done, if you have any questions just leave a comment below.